My wife and I were camping with our two young boys in Smoky Mountain National Park, which is the most visited National Park in the U.S. Our first morning in the park we decided to knock out Cades Cove, which is the most visited attraction in the most visited National Park; pretty busy place. Cades Cove is an 11 mile loop of one-way traffic, along which you can stop to see log cabins, churches, a grist mill and other buildings, all part of a community that existed during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Bears were on the radar from the start. The first stop we made was for a quarter-mile hike up to an old log cabin. Half way up the trail we hear a scream. A young girl ahead of us encountered a mama bear and her cub in the brush just off the trail. They were no where to be seen by the time we arrived. With two young boys in tow, that was just fine with me.
All the guide books said to expect heavy, slow moving traffic when visiting Cades Cove. We were about half way around the loop and traffic hadn’t been a problem, when all of a sudden it just stops, dead. We wait about 5 minutes before I decide to get out and have a look, and I see people out of their cars taking pictures at something in the road up ahead. Then I notice others with their cameras pointed back in the direction of the first group of people. It was the craziest thing I’ve ever seen! There were at least 20 people milling around a young bear as casually as if he had been a cocker spaniel. No one seemed to wonder where mama was. Fortunately a Park Ranger quickly arrived to shoo away the tourists and the bear, who was in no particular hurry to leave.
Continuing around the loop we saw a total of three more bears, this time at a distance. They looked like they were grazing out in the meadows. There were two Park Rangers on hand to direct traffic, inviting people to stop and take pictures, as long as they were able to get all four tires off the road so as not to impede traffic flow.
First day out and we’ve seen five bears. Not bad! Going into this I thought we would be lucky to see one. Little did I know that the best was yet to come.
Day two, we decide to take the 1.5 mile round-trip hike up to Laurel Falls. Again, this is one of the most visited attractions in the park. It’s easy to get to, just off the main road, and the trail is paved the entire way, so we’re thinking this would be an easy, safe hike for the kids. Trouble. There is a “Danger” sign posted right at the trail head, cautioning to keep children under control, because there have been occurrences of death from children falling; as the trail winds up the mountain, there is a steep drop-off to one side the entire length of the trail. We venture forth.
Right away we meet people coming down the trail, warning us to turn around; there is a mama bear and two cubs up ahead, running back and forth across the trail. Apparently one or more had been in a tree, the tree broke, and the bears came crashing down causing them to be a little dazed and confused. We consider the warning, but decide to continue on. They entire way we meet people who either have seen the bears, or talked to someone who had. We reach the top to find a beautiful waterfall, but no bears. I’m not disappointed. Concern about keeping our boys from falling off the mountain was enough. I’m very happy not to have seen a bear on this hike.
After taking our photos, we head back down the trail. We meet hikers coming up, but this time no one is talking about bears, so we figure we’re in the clear, but remain alert just in case. Almost to the trailhead, I can see the road and parking lot through the trees, so I remove my three-year old son, Jordan, from my shoulders thinking he’s been riding long enough and can walk the rest of the way. We come around the last bend in the trail, and there’s mama and her two cubs, waiting for us at the trail head approximately 60 feet ahead.
My first concern is for Jordan, so I put him back on my shoulders, also thinking that this may help me appear a little larger to the bears. As we stand our ground and watch in awe, mama bear takes notice, and it’s pretty clear to all concerned who’s in charge. As if she knows the drill, she crosses the trail in front of us, and makes here way into the brush up the mountain side. Shortly thereafter the first cub follows. The second cub takes his time as he decides to stretch up on the “Danger” sign I mentioned earlier. I hear something moving in the brush, and turn to see that mama bear has worked her way around to our left, cutting the distance between us in half. We are slowly being surrounded! As the second cub works his way into the brush, I start working my family down the remainder of the trail and to the safety of our car.
This is one of those experiences that you ponder on many times afterwards. Did we make the right decisions? Should we have made our way back up the trail immediately upon seeing the bears? Was it a good idea to put Jordan back on my shoulders? Just how much danger were we truly in? I keep thinking about how fast mama bear could have closed the distance between us, especially after she had claimed the higher ground. The meeting between my family and a family of bears, alone in the woods, is definitely an experience I will always treasure, and hope will be a memory my boys will share with their children someday. However, once is enough!
– Rick Bodenhamer
Operations Manager
Wichita, KS